Our flight to Guayarmerin on the Brazil/Bolivian border was much less eventful than expected (thank god). Other than taking off late (surprise, surprise) and having to wait in the sweltering heat instead of in the shade with everyone else (to beat the other tall guy [6`5″] to the exit row), all went well. This ended up being one of those small 20-seater planes with one seat on either side of the aisle, and three across the back, which Pat and I rushed to claim as our own. The plane was so tiny! I literally had to bend in half to keep my head from hitting the ceiling, and poor Pat practically had to crawl down the aisle.
We landed at a po-dunk airport on a strip of dirt (kind of scary!). We could feel the plane actually sink into the dirt, and little chunks of earth flew everywhere when they threw the engines into reverse (or whatever it is they do to slow the planes down). After a confusing security process (we thought the guy was trying to either steal our bags or force us to take a taxi ride with him by getting us to give him our claim tickets… [why isn`t he helping anyone else?]), we finally had our mochilas in hand. Turns out the airport is barely even on the outskirts of town. Actually, it`s in a field in the middle of town. After a short conversation with a guy about where we should stay, buy hammocks, etc. (thank god for my Spanish), we set off on foot and bumped into our chosen hotel a few mintues later.
The room was cute, and we threw down for a three hour nap. No, we are not lazy, just totally beat from way too much travelling. And I`m sick. The five-million-hour, fill-your-lungs-with-dirt bus rides have left me with all the symptoms of a common cold. Greeeeat. After procuring hammocks, some cheap eats (we`re subsiting on bread, water, and fruit now thanks to the plane ticket splurge), and water (we go through at least a gallon a day here!), we dropped off our stuff at the hotel and went for some air-conditioned internet-time. Yay!
We intended to cross the border today and take the five hour bus to Porto Velho, but my illness, combined with our collective lack of motivation, along with the fact that the guide book (published two years ago) promises we won`t be able to get a boat until Tuesday anyway, kept us here for one more day. So, instead of getting up early, and packing up, and going through the stress of getting our exit stamps, entry stamps, finding a way to Porto Velho, and remembering how to speak Portuguese again, we just got up, showered, ate and what-not, and then napped for three more hours. I wish I could say that did the trick, but I am still feeling under the weather. It`s weird to have a “cold” in 90 degree, humid weather. I hope I bounce back soon!
On another note, the constant culture shock (always moving to new towns with different customs, food, ways of doing things, modes of transportation, legal procedures, etc.) is really kicking our butts right now. Both of us would kill to be in Gillette shopping for a cabbage-rice-shrimp dinner at Albertson`s
I just want to buy some triscuits and some shrimp and some whole grain brown rice and nice clean head of cabbage without and flies on it.
and renting a movie from Video Experience and going for a hike up the state-land butte. But instead, we are in a Bolivian backwater where the only food we recognize is pizza, and flies swarm the meat cuts hanging for sale in market shops, and little boys pee in the gutters at their mother`s commands. Usually the different ways of life are interesting and exciting, but right now they`re just sort of depressing.
Nonetheless, we will be moving on tomorrow, down the Rio Madiera (I think. It`s one of the Amazon`s biggest tributaries… I know that…) to Manaus, and then down the Amazon itself to Belem on the coast. From there, we hope it will be beaches and wonderful spicy food all the way back to Rio de Janiero and finally to Sao Paulo. We are both much looking forward to lazing the days away in our hammocks reading and playing cards and spying pink dolphins and red macaws.
Hope all is well with everyone. Take care!
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