After our morning rituals in our now-favorite camp spot, we eased back into civilization with a stop for lunch items at Chelan’s local Safeway.   We took advantage of the cell service, and I got to call my parents on their anniversary!

I jumped behind the wheel for the next several hours and took us through the irrigated Columbia River Valley (looks a lot like home!), quaint little foothill towns (Toby said they were so cute he wanted to puke – I thought they were fantastic!), and finally back into the North Cascades!   One of the great  ironies of our journey: to get to Canada from our northern most point on our recent backpack trip we had to
1) hike 15 miles south,
2) sail 35 miles south
3) drive 20 miles south
4) drive 30 miles east
5) drive 70 miles north, and then
6) head west back into the Cascades.
Full circle, basically.   I have been the grateful recipient of many incredible mountain vistas, but the North Cascades take the cake.   I think it’s as close to New Zealand (think Lord of the Rings) as one can get in North America.   Soaring, jagged peak after soaring, jagged peak for miles and miles and miles.   If you ever get a chance to drive Washington’s Highway 20, don’t pass it up!

Of course there was intermittent pounding rain (it wouldn’t be Washington or spring  without it!), but we took advantage of a dry spell to throw down the tailgate and make lunch.

At our last U.S. gas stop, I succumbed to the attached McDonalds  and sucked down and ice cream cone.   Yay!   Then we were off for the border.   As my luck would have it, we were of course asked to pull to the holding area and step inside while our vehicle was searched and we were questioned.   Toby, Nathan, and Chhimi  managed to cross the border in the same strange vehicle combo, late at night, with a mish-mash of passports including one Bhutanese with no problems.   But throw “always-gets-stopped-at-customs-every-single-freaking-time” woman in the mix, and there is gonna be trouble! (sorry!!!!).   Of course there was nothing for them to “find,” so we were off and made it to Nathan’s dad’s house mid-evening!   Laundry and dinner were in order.   We made 11p.m. plans with Nathan’s sister and cousin in from out of town.   I took a nap so I could rally, but they ended up cancelling the plans and I didn’t wake up again until the early morning!

Given our time spent at high elevation, my morning Vancouver runs were especially glorious.   Not only is the city covered in beautiful vegetation, but my hemoglobin levels were sky high.   I felt like I could run forever! (Except, of course, the inevitable end of each journey – Nathan’s dad lives at the top of a very steep hill.   We’ll be walking this one.   Always.)

Our first full day in Vancouver (“North Van” actually) was spent  dealing with life logistics (laundry, email, budgeting, journaling, etc.).   Then we took various forms of public transport (Sea Ferry across the harbor and Sky Train to one end of the city) to the  “Bike Free Day” celebration.   The highlight, for me, was being on the Sky Train right after the Brazil/Ghana (I think) game let out.   A million Brazilians and Brazil fans flooded the streets.   We got on a sky train car with a bunch of them who were shouting and chanting and singing homage to their team.   It was great!   Highlights of the “Bike Free Day,” since I’m not much of a vendor visitor, were all people watching: dancers in costume, people on roller skates, people dancing on a couch, a tall, shirtless, hot-bodied, mini-dreads-to-his-chin African man picking up a middle-aged white woman and dancing with her wrapped around his waist (more than once!)… wow!   We ended the evening with a fantastic Father’s Day Dinner back at the house joined by Nathan’s sister Megan who met up with us at the previous  celebrations.   Ahh… friends, family, good food, and wine!

Day Two: we attacked the Vancouver sight-seeing possibilities with plans to have dinner with mom that night and sail on day three.   We had a quick stop at the bank where Toby had to salivate  over the Mountain Equipment Co-op across the street (Canada’s REI), while Nathan and I found out the US dollar is extremely weak.   Then it was off to a quaint, hot new grocery store on the side of town famous for its sidewalk heroin users.   Finally we made it to gas town, where Nathan says the loggers used to “get gassed” back in the day.   The official Gas Town website says it’s named after Gassy Jack, a tall-tale slinger who opened up the first saloon on the otherwise deserted stretch next to the mill.   The charming cobblestone streets and historic buildings are now the backdrop for many large cultural events, including the upcoming International Jazz Festival!

Afterwards we drove past Chinatown’s remaining street, stopped to check out the shreds remaining of the Olympic Village near the science museum, and ended up at Granville Island – my favorite destination for the day.   We watched a glassblower for awhile  (I really want to learn to do this!), visited the vibrant market where Nathan and Toby indulged in smoked salmon and sausages, walked around the docks checking out sail boats, and then visited the Kid’s Market and played with all the toys!   From that fun, we retired to Nate’s mom’s house in “West Van” – a cute little high rise  called the Lion’s Gate.   We had a cheese freakout in the form of appetizers: we got so full on feta, brie, and this amazing middle-eastern eggplant concoction that we couldn’t even imagine eating dinner without going on a walk first.

A few blocks down the street is the famed Vancouver sea wall walking path.   People come from all over the city for their evening stroll.   It was pleasantly populated and we enjoyed both the people watching and the view as the sun sank toward the horizon.   We were marveling at how the time slipped away when we realized it was the solstice!   So, with the sun still well above the horizon at 9:30 p.m., we headed back to make Thai curry.   Toby fixed it up, while Nathan chatted on the phone and I agonized over my next travel plans.   Not that we needed more food, but we ate Toby’s wonderful curry anyway, then we went ahead and had dessert.   Then Esther (Nathan’s delightful mother) brought out the chocolates – the delicious death kiss!   The highlight of the evening was getting to know Esther.   She is a truly incredible woman, so interesting, warm, sweet… wish she was my aunt so I’d get to see her at family reunions every few years!

Day Three was more my style (not that I don’t love exploring cities).   We took the boat to an inlet known as Indian Arm and got it all set up (quite  the process stepping the mast, getting all the lines attached, putting the motor on, attaching the rudder, dropping the keel, etc.).   Then we loaded more people than should probably fit on such a small boat – the three musketeers (Toby, Nathan, Jema), plus Taras, Melanie, and Esther.   As the wind puffed off and on, I worked on finishing 1984 (There are several classics I’ve yet to read).   We finally made it to the Twin Islands – a marine park that was fun to explore.   I hiked all the way around the main island, and then watched a testosterone war between Nathan and Taras thinly disguised as “Nathan learns to do a back flip off the dock.”   Silly boys!

Back on shore, we de-rigged and then headed to a quaint inlet town for some famous Gelato (like ice cream, but better and healthier).   It was to-die-for, and the people watching at the marina was great!

From there we gathered up items for a BBQ at Esther’s, collected my things for my morning journey, and headed back to West Van to spend my last Canadian evening barbecuing on the shore.   Thanks to the long, long days we were on the beach until past ten enjoying our chicken, salad, etc.   Then we drove up to an overlook with Taras to see the city lights and play with his new camera concocting all sorts of silly shots.   Of course we were late to bed and early to rise (me at least).   I was thankful to say goodbyes through the haze of sleepiness before Esther drove me to the train station.   Toby and Nathan are like brothers to me, and there is a pretty solid chance this is the last we’ll really see of each other, save weddings and the occasional visit each decade.   *sniffle*   I’ll miss you guys!

When I talked to my friend Tai several weeks ago about her desire  to make  a life change, I quickly did the math.   I had lots of free time, a holiday weekend was coming for her, and we were both wanting to be in Northern Oregon.   She’s considering Portland for her next home, so I leapt at the chance to show her around the city.

We’re both on budgets, and we needed help learning about the city from  various perspectives.   We turned to Servas, a wonderful organization with a mission that sounds a bit fluffy, but really works quite  well.   Officially they are into “international peacekeeping.”   They connect interviewed and approved hosts and travelers in various places.   Servas  reasons that misunderstanding based in fear is the foundation of unrest.   So, they promote cultural exchange and hopefully understanding.   I am a U.S. host with access to inter-country reciprocity.   I arranged two places for us to stay, and we were off!

Bonnie and Pete are, as far as we could tell, a really wonderful couple.   Both doctors, involved in community, and well traveled.   So much so, that they were traveling during our planned stay.   Sweet, trusting folks that they are, they did what had been done for them in Italy once.   The key to their gorgeous home was under the mat when we arrived on Friday!    We ate dinner to NPR, chatted with their neighbor who came by to check on us, and got lots of rest!

Saturday the city was filled  with the pulse of the annual Rose Festival.   In the A.M. we ventured on free public transit across the river to  the downtown Saturday Markets.   Vendors had countless treasures on display  – jewelry, handmade soaps, tulip  lamps,  dog treats, BBQ sauce, and more!   The Farmer’s Market  even hosted a few  of the notorious food carts we’d been admonished to try.   An amazing crepe made the cut for Tai!

We declined the offer to spend Saturday night  at an event our hosts were obligatorily  attending.     Instead, we set out for Ethiopian, but couldn’t resist the food cart treat of grilled cheese (gluten free bread!!!) in a school-bus-cum-dining-facility.

After a Bubble Tea dessert, we started dialing folks I knew  who might want to play (and tell Tai about their version of Portland).   We scored an evening with the beloved Ben Carver walking about Hawthorne & Burnside, dining at East Burn, drinking cherry porter, and attempting to break into the  Chopsticks karaoke scene  before Tai and I headed back a’la  our self imposed curfew.

Sunday, after a NoPo (north Portland) Farmer’s Market tour, we joined the Memorial Day masses in “the Gorge.”

This scenic stretch east up the Columbia River is home to dozens of beautiful waterfalls, and scores of amazing hikes.   We drove past the famous and hopelessly packed Multnomah  Falls (tallest in Oregon) and squeezed into a parking spot at Eagle Creek.   The highly recommended trail loomed over a beautiful canyon and creek below.  Often we held onto steel cables as we traversed a narrow path cut out of the edge of a muddy, slippery cliff!

We were rewarded with two waterfall views before we headed back to town to shop on 23rd.

Tai found some hot items in a few boutiques and happened upon some soap I’ve had on my wishlist  for months.   It’s shampoo with the water removed and purported to be  the traveler’s perfect toiletry.   So far I love it, but it will be put to the real test when Pat and I run the wedding gauntlet in August.

Sunday night we managed a quadruple culture shot.   We finally made it to Ethiopian. We had to-die-for-dessert at the Montage where flaming drinks abound and leftovers come wrapped in three-foot-tall aluminum-foil sculptures.

We got lost in Powell’s – a bookstore encompassing an entire city block with a maze of mezzanines and levels all identified by color.   We finished the night with our hosts at Voodoo Donuts, infamous for its creatively named and quirky donuts.   From the Old Dirty Bastard (regular donut topped with Oreo’s, peanut butter, and chocolate), to the Tex-ass Challenge (a supersized regular donut – eat it in under 80 seconds, get your money back), to the Maple Bacon and the Gay Bar (yes, maple frosting topped with bacon, and a cream filled bar with a rainbow of fruit loops, respectively), we had a blast!

Monday Tai headed back to Humboldt with a wealth of new Portland knowledge, and began work on my second Portland goal – see all my P-town friends!

First — the great news — Pat is going to travel with me this whole summer (starting in July).   I’m so excited!

Anyway”¦ Adrian zoomed us home from Sequoia National Park on Sunday in record time.   After showering and posting my craigslist ride offer, I got right down to business on my remaining to-dos: go on a motorcycle ride (Adrian bought a “crotch rocket”) and hopefully a plane ride (A is working on hours for his commercial pilot ratings).

Santa Barbara is on the south-facing coast of southern California and is backed by some really beautiful mountains.

I pled my case and we ended up on a really fun, fast, corner-filled sunset motorcycle ride with amazing views of the coast and the valley on the other side of the mountains.

Definitely top five rides ever!   Then we pieced together dinner from our backpacking leftovers and ate and watched a movie with Pieter.   I never would have picked up Sherlock Holmes for myself, but it was actually pretty good!

Monday I had the house to myself while everyone was at work.   I dried out camping gear, managed and coordinated a plethora of interested craigslist riders, went on a gorgeous run down to the waterfront, walked around on the pier and up State Street (the fun commercial district), and got food for dinner.

I begged Adrian for a plane ride when he got off work, but I got shut down by poor weather conditions and his groggy, sinus-drug-addled brain.   My consolation prize was another motorcycle ride – this time to the neighboring municipality that is home to UCSB (University of California – Santa Barbara).   Then we went up to Pieter’s campus and on a tour of various Santa Barbara highlights (courthouse, mission, etc.)

I broke out the glass noodle salad I learned to make in Thailand for dinner, and we three musketeers finished off Sherlock Holmes complimented by a hefty, unnecessary, delightful rounds of beer and popcorn.   It was a great end to my visit!

The following morning, I needed to head back to Humboldt to see my CASA kid before she left on a three week vacation.   I am doing my best to see her as much as possible this summer.   Tuesday at 6 a.m. came earlier than imagined, but I made it to my first of five craigslist rider pick ups for the day on time.   Ariel was wonderful!   Next we picked up Andre, who was quite a character.   Not only did he fail to give me an apartment number for a multi-acre apartment complex, not only was he not awake when we called him for said detail, not only did he let me call him “Ty” (actually ”˜thank you’ at the end of his email vs. the signature that I mistook it for), not only did he have the nerve to attempt to demand that the whole day revolve around what time he “needed” to be to his destination, but he was also a thorough so-cal cultural stereotype.   He was so absurd that he was funny, but everything worked out great.   Ariel, Andre and I zipped from Santa Barbara to Berkeley in record time with a short stop in San Jose to meet a guy who, after heavy negotiating by Andre, was talked into another form of transport.

I traveled the Berkeley to Santa Rosa stretch on my own, but then picked up Aren.   Craigslist is, for the most part, totally wonderful.   However, as with any online, stranger-meeting endeavor, it’s advisable to exercise a bit of suspicion.   I knew Aren (Santa Rosa to Humboldt) would be wonderful, but wasn’t sold on Michael (Ukiah to Humboldt).   Therefore, no Aren would mean no Michael.   The whole situation was complicated by none of us having cell phones.   In the end, I waited around outside a house in Santa Rosa for a half hour, Aren showed up, Michael showed up, and we all had a great time chatting the whole way back to Humboldt.   It was a pretty killer day — I had conversation/entertainment for almost the whole drive, and people pitching in for gas ended up covering all fuel costs.   Top it all off with dinner at my favorite Mexican restaurant with Adam, Chelsey and brother Ben and you couldn’t find a happier Jema.

In hindsight, I am terribly grateful to Sandra who let me surf her couch in Berkeley.   I’m finding that not every couchsurfing  host is as responsive or reliable as I am, which is causing me to re-think Servas.   But anyway…

Having never been to Berkeley (and not even knowing how to properly spell it), I decided it was a must-add to the itinerary.   Coupled with the fact that it is the stage for a novel my book group just read, it was an obvious stop.

I met Sandra at her front door at 5:00.   We got to know each other over some tea before heading off for an impromptu tour of Berkeley on the way to the Hare Krishna temple she has been attending  for the past few months.   We arrived before the class she attends in time for the end of the daily honoring of the deities ceremony.   The temple was tucked away in a neighborhood, and plain on the outside.   The inside, however, was incredibly beautiful and ornate.

The singing of the monks was really beautiful and poetic.   For the class, we sat on rugs in the center of the temple and sang from the Bhagavad  Gita and then the students read the translations aloud.   The monk talked about how the text applied to daily life and how it related to the other parts of the Bhagavad  Gita.   It was really interesting!   Followers of Hare Krishna believe that a person has to be reincarnated over 80,000 times before being gifted with a human body.   Incredible!

After the temple, we went out for my first Ethiopian food!   We shared the family-style  sampler and were absolutely stuffed.   The food is generally served with a side of Injera – a traditional “bread” that doubles as a utensil.   Really, the “bread” is more like a cross between a beer pancake (if you’ve never had this, envisioning a regular pancake will get you close) and a crepe.   The “pancake” is rolled up into a tube – like Little Debbie Swiss Rolls – and then cut into sections.   To use, simply unroll a bit, tear off, scoop up some delightful dish, and eat!

The Injera is made  with teff  – the world’s smallest grain.   Unfortunately for my gluten-free tummy, in the U.S. they mix in 1/2 wheat flour.   I figured my first Ethiopian meal called for a digestion sacrifice and boldly ate heaps of 1/2 wheat, 1/2 teff  Injera.   It was delicious, and the fallout wasn’t anything I haven’t experienced a million times before.   Oh!   And how was the food that the Injera scooped?   Delightful!   Lentils, greens – a tasty mix between Indian style dishes, southern cooking, and light Greek fare.

We were early to bed and early to rise as Sandra – a med student – was off to a required basic life-saving skills course for the day.   She drew me an incredible map which set the stage for a perfect day.   Since she lives a block from the infamous UC Berkeley campus, my first order of business was to give myself a tour.   Real tours were booked solid, so I just wandered around checking out the libraries and buildings.   What a gorgeous place!   Made me want to go back to school!

Life with a car in downtown Berkely  revolves around two hour  parking.   At the two hour  mark, I grabbed my car and headed up to Tilden Park – the highlight of the day for sure!   The “park” is really a huge preserve of woods in the hills overlooking Berkeley, the Bay, and San Francisco.   I had the trail I picked randomly to myself and was rewarded  with an incredible view at the top.   I so love being out-of-doors and out-of-crowds, that I had a few moments of doubt regarding my plan to visit my way down the coast cities in effort to really learn California’s political geography.   Shouldn’t I just be backpacking?

After Tilden, Sandra had tipped me off to the local YMCA’s free-mother’s-day  weekend.   Since Sandra is a member, I got into the three-story, amazing, Berkeley Y for free!   They have pretty incredible facilities.   I weight-lifted, steamed, and sauna-ed my afternoon away.   Well, the two hours that parking allowed, at least.   Then I nursed my internet addiction (hey – a traveler has to get info and make couchsurfing plans somehow, right?) at the Berkeley Public Library before embarking on a Telegraph trek.   Telegraph is the famous street in Berkeley, much like Arcata’s Plaza or New York’s Times Square.   It’s a multi-block stretch of funky stores, restaurants, and bars that cater to the student population.

An impromptu, musically-challenged bluegrass band played while reggae blared from a stereo cart on the corner.   Heavenly pizza smells poured from open doors, incense smoke whirled out of head shops, and the flashy colors of the late 80’s were everywhere.   A sweet proprietor of a hole-in-the wall convenience store operation made my day when I inquired about the price of his apples and he tossed me a freebie!

Two hours are up again!   Time to head to San Francisco to meet Elly and begin celebrating her birthday!