Ladyboys: Thailand’s third gender (and lesbian lessons)


The scantily-clad ladyboys at Calypso Cabaret are stunning. However, being mired in spreadsheets and delusional from the combined heat of the tropics, forty computer processors, and a busy kitchen — I nearly forgot to attend the show!

Sophisticated LED diagrams for Bangkok’s gnarly traffic.

A safe window to get across Bangkok on a Friday night (for a tourist who has never been where she’s going and would rather spend an hour sitting and waiting at her destination than be late for a performance) is two hours. I had 90-minutes to show time.

Bangkok Dental Care: one woman’s medical tourism experience


Even dental care can be an adventure in the context of a big, foreign city. Given Bangkok’s international reputation for excellent medical care, breaking my twenty-four-month dental abstinence in Thailand was an easy choice.

Not my photo, but the cab is the right color. And if you click the photo link at the end of the post, you can read a SE Asian (Malaysian) perspective on the BKK tourist scene.

Originally I planned on tackling the mysterious web of bus routes needed to get from Banglamphu to Siam Square. Two hours before my appointment I was feeling so anxious about screwing up somewhere, I scrapped the whole plan and jumped in a lime-green cab. I failed, however, to recalculate how I should proceed upon arriving in the neighborhood.

Thank god I have a photographic memory from which I could piece together a recollection of a few landmarks and their relationship with the dentist’s office. Lessons learned:
1) Bring the electronic device (with its maps and contact information), even when you don’t think you need it.
2) Always get the hotel reception to write — in Thai — the name of your destination. (Remember that worst English in SE Asia thing? The taxi drivers  know no more English than you know Thai.)

No Speakeen English: adorable Thai translations


The English spoken in Thailand is some of the worst in SE Asia. I’m not being a snobby tourist who thinks locals should learn my language. Far from it. I’m happy when anyone speaks a language I know! But the Thai government is concerned that when the ASEAN community is realized in 2015, Asians with great English skills will flood Thailand usurping tourism jobs (6% of Thailand’s GDP) and leaving locals in the lurch (4 million currently employed in the industry).

“Sanuk” in action!

One might ask why the English is so bad in a country that thrives on tourism — a past-time whose auditory currency is the ubiquitous English language.

Portrait of Thailand: items of note in ‘The Land of Smiles’


More random observations from your’s truly –

  • “There’s a drink for that!” – the city trains in Bangkok have a loop of TV commercials using myriad stereotyped actors to advertise a variety of drinks that come in containers the size of baby food jars. Not sure what each drink does, but it all seems very exciting.

  • Waitress uniforms at popular restaurants involve short, one-shoulder dresses that would be beautiful if they weren’t colored to mimic and covered in logos from beer cans.

  • A pad thai street vendor

    It surprising, with food available every three steps, that the Thai aren’t more corpulent. Within a block, I saw

Being a Woman in Bangkok: beauty and shopping take a toll


A beauty spa is really a torture chamber in disguise. All my life I’d innocently assumed rich women go to be pampered — Cleopatra style. When Beth suggested we treat ourselves to a massage, body scrub, and sauna during her final days in Thailand, I though, “Why not? Might as well see for myself what this ‘spa’ business is all about.”

This is how it all begins. Look innocent enough, eh?

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First came the “oil massage.” We started on two mattresses behind a curtain, stripped to our skivvies.  The massage progressed just as my only previous Thailand “oil massage” did.  Unlike the kneading movements used by  American masseurs, in Thailand, long firm strokes are the rule.  I kind of felt like a household pet, but when in Rome… (or Bangkok).  Unfortunately, things went from different to awkward when it was time to go belly up. Erroneously, I thought the Thai oil massage experience I’d had three years ago with Nicole was a one-off fluke. Not so.

Mr. Bat, & Angkor Wat: a found family & a country’s corruption


According to Mr. Bat, a family that fled Cambodia during the Khmer Rouge occupation was found  a few years ago in the jungles of northern Laos. They didn’t know the reign of terror was over. Twenty to thirty years “over”, depending on who you ask. Turns out their youngest child had spent all 16 years of her life roughing it in the jungle without cause.

Mr. Bat and Beth in front of the steps that descend to “the Killing Cave.”

Mr. Bat was the genial, early-40’s, grinning guide with whom I struck up an immediate friendship. I got his jokes, he got mine, and soon we were piling into his tuk-tuk to be shown around the city of Battambang for $5.

Cambodia: Beth’s First Border


Grow up in an ocean-locked collection of islands, and border crossings will be the stuff of Hollywood movies.

Empty for miles and miles…

It took us maybe four hours, traveling by ferry, bus, and then bumping along in the back of a truck, to reach the remote Thailand/Cambodia border between Ban Pakard and Psar Prum. Amenities and infrastructure are arranged such that locals and tourists alike tend not to have much use for this place. We drove for miles in eerie silence — no other cars, cattle, bicycles, motorbikes or pedestrians on the road. After about 45 minutes in no-man’s-land, Beth began to worry aloud.

In her world, a border is the dangerous place where dramatic scenes in movies are played out. And lonely countryside is where a country’s militants stop passing cars at gunpoint and demand money or worse. I did my best to reassure her that I was somewhat certain this type of thing wasn’t going to happen to us, but what did I know?

Beth’s Bangkok Blast-off: Introducing the Filipina to Backpacking & Thailand


Beth and I on one of our fun, fantastic evenings in the Philippines.

I first met my spike-heel wearing, heat-packing friend Beth in the Philippines at a benefit concert for Bob, a man who has since passed away. I was enamored immediately. I make a habit of collecting blunt, passionate friends who tell me what to do. And don’t mind when I refuse. We had so much fun together in her home country, that meeting up in mainland SE Asia was a natural next step. Well, kind of.

Observed: SE Asian TP, Double Ke$ha, and Dough Girl


For the past month, we’ve been in SE Asia. Here are some interesting things I’ve noticed or that have popped into my brain:

  • While this toilet paper doesn't share the same textures/qualities as Laos toilet paper, it IS the same color pink!

    Toilet Paper Streamers — strangely, in Lao only, the toilet paper is almost exactly like those paper streamers bought cheaply to decorate parties. While double the width and slightly less waxy, the texture, accordion crinkles, the way it stretches without breaking are all the same.   Oh, and sometimes it’s grandma-pink.

When the Going Gets Tough, The Tough Eat Ice Cream


It’s been almost two years since I gave up my “real” job. And in eight more weeks, a whole year will have passed since I last swapped my time for money in New Zealand.   I’m not gonna lie. It’s really fulfilling to be following my dream, and my ‘classes’ out here in the school-of-the-world are even more rewarding and educational than I’d hoped.

What my friends and family seem to think I usually do with my time…

Affording a small period of ‘freedom’ or ‘early retirement’ has been a lifelong dream of mine. I’d always hoped for at least a year and in the spirit of ‘dreaming big’ secretly coveted even more time. Could I make it two years? Three? FIVE?!

But it’s not all roses.